Tomatoes are probably the most thought of crop for the keen garden grower.
Previously thought of as purely a greenhouse grown crop, they are now being successfully grown outdoors and in conservatories with excellent results.
It is quite possible you will get the best results in a properly prepared and heated greenhouse, but with the introduction of much hardier species over the years there is no reason why anyone cannot grow enough to feed themselves and their family during the harvesting season by following a few simple rules.
F1 Hybrid varieties
Cherry.
My personal favorite is the Cherry tomato or (Cherry Belle). These, as you might expect are a much smaller variety but produce very heavy crops with a taste that I think is far superior to all of the other types. It is also a good one to begin with as it is also very resistant to many of the diseases that trouble some types.
Shirley.
Another good crop that is resistant to leaf mould and greenback, it can also put up with the odd cold night in the greenhouse if you forget to put on the heater! Another heavy cropper.
Tumbler.
Similar to the cherry tomato in size, this is grown in either hanging baskets or outdoor pots.
Ordinary varieties
Alisa Craig.
Medium sized tomatoes that have an excellent flavor and will produce early fruits. These are able to be grown outdoors or under glass.
Moneymaker.
A very popular tomato, again giving medium sized fruits. This will provide a very heavy crop, but the downside is the rather bland taste.
Money cross.
Very similar to the Moneymaker, although it has superior resistance to leaf mould and also produces its crop early.
Alicante.
Another variety that is able to grow outside as well as under glass. Similar to the moneymaker, resistant to greenback and a heavy cropper that produces its crop early.
Other varieties
Yellow perfection.
Bright yellow fruits that perform well outdoors and under glass. Another heavy cropper with an excellent sweet flavor.
There obviously other types we could cover, but there should be something from the list above for you to try!
Soil requirements
Tomatoes can be sown in into small 3-4″ peat post that are filled with general purpose seed compost and are widely available at garden centres. The seeds need a germination temperature of around 60-65°F. This temperature, if possible should be kept stable throughout the life of the plant and not be allowed to fall below 50°F if at all possible.
Sowing & transplanting
Cover the seeds with around 1/4″ (6mm) fine compost and keep the soil damp but not wet. In around 7-14 days you should see the shoots appear. If you have placed several seeds into each pot, you will be able to remove the weaker seedlings and leave the strong ones. When they reach 5″-8″ high you will then need to transplant them into either growbags, large pots (usually about 9″ diameter), or into a garden border. I personally have never tried them in a border and always plant them into pots in the greenhouse. If you have any tips let me know!
If you have used peat pots, I advise you to carefully remove the bottom layer of the peat pot (taking care not to damage the fine roots) before you plant out. This is because I have found in previous years when removing the plant at the end of the season, the bottom of the peat pot has remained intact, and prevented the root from developing as it should.
Plant Care
The main stem of the plant should be supported by either a cane or trained around a piece of string that runs from the top of the pot, up to around 7 ft high. If you use the cane method, be sure not to tie too tightly as the stem will swell as it grows and will be cut by the tie.
Water regularly to ensure the soil is kept moist but not too wet. Mornings are usually a good time to do this but you may need to water more than once a day in hot weather. During hot periods in the greenhouse you will need to carry out “Damping down”, this will require you to spray the plants, glass and floor on a daily basis. Mist the plants and occasionally tap them lightly during the morning to aid pollination.
Once the plant reaches around 4 ft high, remove the leaves (now yellow) at the bottom of the plant with a sharp knife. The plant will also start to produce side shoots between the stem and leaf joint, these can either be pinched or cut out when they are no longer than 1″ long. These shoots must be removed as the will drain away the resources needed to feed the existing plant.
When the plant reaches the top of the greenhouse (around 7 ft) cut out the top of the plant at three leaves after the last truss, this will ensure the remaining fruits will set.
As the fruits begin to swell, feed with a tomato fertilizer. As each manufacturer is different, follow the instructions on the bottle. I always use tomato feed on alternate days.
Picking or harvesting
The bottom trusses will ripen first so pick these when they are almost ripe (orange-red). This is done by breaking the tomato off at its knuckle (just above the calyx).
By picking tomatoes just before they are ripe, you will enable the plant to concentrate its efforts on the remaining fruits. Picked tomatoes that are not quite ripe are best placed on a window sill and will be ready within just a few days.
Remember to keep removing the new shoots between the leaf joints when you are picking your fruits as they will start to appear more often now you are giving them a liquid feed.
